Grain of salt.

Still no internet. I’ve gotten past the frustration part. Now I'm just want it to come.
ANYWAY. So classes are now in full swing. I dropped Zulu and replaced it with South African Theater so the list comes to: Poetry in Performance, Creative Writing, Art and Culture in Post-Apartheid South Africa, and South African Theater History. Which is a really arty list. But then I am in art school after all. All the classes seem really awesome. Creative Writing is just fun. South African Theater History is actually taught by Greg our program coordinator which means I need to do well and get all the reading done because he has the power to evict me. Also he’s cool and I want him to keep liking the Americans. It's examining what happens when the western/ Aristotelian model of theater collides with indigenous models and what that means for the importance of plot versus spectacle and the relationship between performer and audience. Plus a bunch of other stuff. Its really cool, and re-inspiring my love of theater. Which quite honestly was sort of killed last semester.
Arts and Culture seems like its going to be a nice supplement to Theater history. Its the one class that all the Americans take together and is only for us. Hopefully it will be a place for us to ask stupid questions we would be embarrassed to ask anywhere else. I, however, have to give a presentation on South African History next week. This is what I get for admitting I took that class. Crap.
Poetry in Performance is my most challenging class. Even though I have to read about 8 novels for Art and Culture I am scared of Poetry in Performance. But I knew it would be hard. And it is the reason why I came. I am having a really difficult time getting myself to write in the style that is required. I write the way people talk and that’s not the way spoken word poetry works. At all. But it will be good, and even if I end up falling flat on my face I'm really glad I'm trying.
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Saturday we went touristing around Jo’burg or Jozi as its sometimes called (this town has more names than it needs). We went to the Apartheid Museum. Which is right across from an Amusement park. And is funded by a Casino. I feel that this fully sums up South Africa. It’s a crazy country.
Apartheid Museum was exactly what you would expect. Heartbreaking and yet also inspiring. What was bizarre was our attempts to get there. The person driving was… well… not smart. We literally drove past this giant building that has these huge pillars coming out of it that says things like “liberty” and “freedom” and written across the side in giant letters is “Apartheid Museum.” The driver turns to us and says “I’m sorry but we’re a little bit lost.” I go “isn’t that a sign right there.” “where?” “there, that grey sign dead in front of us that says “Apartheid Museum”” “I don’t see it.” “its right in front of us.” He then drove up to the guard in front and asked “is this the apartheid museum?” “Yes” “Is this the only Apartheid museum in Jo’burg.” “Yes. All the apartheid is right there.” “really” “Apartheid is in there.” It was… absurd.
When you enter the museum you are arbitrarily assigned a card that says either “white” or “non-white” and then go through the first part of the museum segregated. Simple. Yet effective.
Aside from that I don’t know what else to say. Human beings suck. Yet they also are capable of amazing things. I’m so deep, I know.
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I think the most remarkable thing about South Africa is how hopeful people are and how there seem to be very few cynics. Or maybe people are keeping quiet. I have this habit of saying something here and then immediately being proven wrong. Like “I haven’t heard any sirens since we got here,” and immediately being bombarded with sirens. Or “I haven’t seen any graffiti” and then seeing loads. Or “I seem to be the only person with a nose piercing.”
But people do seem remarkably optimistic about the future. I mean, so much has changed in 12 years it is really inspiring.
I asked Russell about it and he seemed almost confused. He was like “yeah, some people are stuck in the past.” And I was like “no, I mean, are there people who think there hasn’t been enough change or they thought it would be better 12 years after democracy.”
Russell: “people are proud to be South African. The people who aren’t left and now live in New Zealand--“
“Or Orange County!”
“Yes. For the most part people are very proud of what amazing things this country has achieved in just 12 years. There will always be people who complain. But I think people are happy with what has happened.”
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Something that does bother me and I cant quite get a handle on is the level of Homophobia. Sexual Orientation is protected in the Constitution and both Jo’burg and Cape Town have huge Gay scenes but that doesn’t seem to influence the rest of the country. I have yet to meet any openly gay people, and the “lets go to the gay bar hahahaha” joke seems to be incredibly popular. I haven’t figured out how to ask people about it because I honestly am not sure how people would react to that question. No one will say “yeah, I'm homophobic.” But still, its an odd feeling especially after New York. Yet another reminder that I live in a bubble.
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Okay, so litterally 5 min after writing this I met two gay south african men. TAKE EVERYTHING I SAY WITH A GRAIN OF SALT.